Essaouira, a more relaxing side of Morocco

The background noise of seagulls cawing and a strong trade wind that invigorates and brings aromas of grilled fish, saltpetre and spices form the welcoming committee that usually receives travellers reaching Essaouira. The town that was Mogador for the Portuguese has always received many travellers, as it was on the caravan route of the merchants loaded with salt and ivory –or slaves, on their way to European lands from Timbuktu. Less welcome were other visits, such as those by pirates and corsairs, which forced the inhabitants to fortify their city. 

A getaway near Marrakech

For the past fifty years, painters, sculptors, musicians, surfers and writers have been arriving from all over the world –with a high predominance of French and Belgians, who have found refuge in this city that is a relevant fishing port and a centre for craftsmen and women and tourists. Waves to surf, inspiration, or perhaps just themselves: in Essaouira everyone is seeking something. Many visitors just come on a day trip from the neighbouring Marrakesh, just 173 km away; the breath of fresh air of the relaxed fishing port coming from the frantic Red City makes more than one traveller regret not spending the night there. 

A complete day might start waking up in many of its charming riads and gaining energy with a delicious breakfast on the patio or on the terrace with pancakes with honey and local cheese, berber bread, dates… and, above all, one of the really fresh orange juices that can be found here. The best idea is to forget your map –along with your car, which is just a nuisance here, and set off to visit the Medina, a UNESCO world heritage site since 2001 and surrounded by imposing stone gates (babs). 

An ancient district, full of artists 

Strolling around the alleyways, which is full of eye-catching, colourful pictures where the Fauvist style predominates, with contrasting whites and blues and the engraved doors of the houses of the old town, travellers will find many art galleries, because important sculptors and painters from the all over the country live in the city and many of them exhibit their work in the streets. 

Carts pulled by mules move around everywhere, pushing their way forward amongst the people. At midday the best idea is to go to the port to try the grilled or fried fish, which are cooked in front of the customer amongst smoke and the watchful eyes of thousands of cats and seagulls, waiting to jump and steal a piece. For a few euros you can fill yourself up with fish and you will be pleasantly surprised to find that the street vendors are much less insistent than in Marrakesh. On the extensive beaches, full of surfers,  you can spend an afternoon on a camel ride, or take a small boat to discover the city from the sea, travelling around the Iles Purpuraires, where there is a bird reserve with seagulls and Eleonora’s falcons, which may be seen from April to October. 

And many more activities

If you prefer to leave the city, there are routes through the surrounding dunes by quad or you can sign up for a daytrip to the vineyards of the Val d’Argan to taste the dozen wines that are produced there, and even travel around the vineyards on horseback, enjoying a traditional Moroccan meal in some of the wine cellars. At the end of the day, the colours of the sunset may be enjoyed from the top of the city walls. 
 

If you choose the Sqala du Port, in addition to the inland views, you will also find the ancient bronze canons that historically protected the city. If you also wish to spend time shopping, the rosé and white wines are some of the city’s most coveted specialities. Argan oil, silverwork, with pieces that combine mother-of-pearl, bone and ebony, along with rugs full of intriguing drawings on a deep red background also all stand out. Another option for those who wish to take it easy is to have a cup of tea while listening to gnawa music, enjoying shows by local artists or eating an unforgettable seafood banquet.