Paradises within reach: Malta and Gozo
Only two hours by plane separate us from these exotic islands where an impressive historical and cultural legacy tinged with mystery and some of the best beaches in the continent.
Marrakech is perhaps the exception, but it is difficult to find destinations that can compete with Malta when combining exoticism and proximity. With many affordable direct flights from Barcelona and Madrid, it’s a perfect getaway to immerse yourself in its wild nature. And also, of course, the rich legacy left by its turbulent past; a glance at its geographical location is enough to understand how strategic it was as a disputed location. The result is the fusion of cultures that today permeates everything from its unique language to its surprising cuisine, a fusion of Sicilian, local and Middle Eastern flavours.
As a result of its ancient past, the islands are also fortified with impressive fortifications, starting with the walled capital, Valletta, built by the Knights of St. John. To hold off the Ottomans, Charles I (of England) handed over the islands permanently to these bastions of Christianity, who, as the only payment, had to give the emperor a prized falcon for falconry every year.
Surrounded by giant walls that reflect the magnitude of the onslaught it had to withstand, Valletta is a tiny, grid-like, colourful city that takes just a few hours to explore. Must-see sights include the opulent Co-cathedral of St John, which contains three paintings of Caravaggio among its treasures. It’s also worth to visit the panoramic Barrakka Gardens and the San Telmo’s Fort, which was the dreadful prison used in the film The Midnight Express.
Leaving the capital behind, it is recommended to rent a car to explore the rest of the island as well as the fascinating Gozo, which is connected to Malta by ferries that depart every half hour. By car, you will soon reach cities where time seems to have stood still, such as Mdina and Rabat, as well as the spectacular Blue Grotto, where you can sail among sea caves that are bathed in a play of astonishing reflections of light. Nearby, the lively fishing village of Marsaxlokk is an excellent choice for a lampuki, one of the most popular fish dishes in Maltese cuisine, or an aljotta, a fish soup similar to bouillabaisse. It’s also the best place to see the country’s traditional fishing boats - the luzzu - painted in a garish combination of colours and adorned with the eyes of Osiris, the Phoenician symbol of protection.
A haunting experience is to visit the Hypogeum of Hal Saflieni, an ancient underground necropolis carved out of the rock with such mysterious spaces as the Well of the Snakes. Even more disturbing can be attending an exorcist mass held once a month at Our Lady of the Sorrows in the south of the island to pray against witchcraft and curses. It is the country with the highest concentration of exorcists in the world, and they have even been broadcasted on television.
Those who are travelling with their families will enjoy Popeye’s Village, a fictitious village created for the filming of Robert Altman’s Popeye, which is now a popular theme park. The country, known as the Hollywood of the Mediterranean, has hosted hundreds of productions, so throughout the trip you’ll find scenery you’ll recognise from the big and small screen, such as Game of Thrones, Troy and Gladiator.
Gozo, belleza salvaje
More rural, quieter and more unspoilt than its big sister, the island of Gozo is likely to be the most pleasant surprise of the trip. You’ll find rugged cliffs, red sandy beaches and charming towns such as the capital, Victoria, with an impressive, recently restored citadel overlooking the city from a hilltop. Don’t miss Dwejra Bay, a charming little fishing enclave with a restaurant serving excellent local food, and the Blue Hole, a 26-metre-deep hole that’s a real treat for snorkelers. It’s not the only one you’ll find in Gozo, where waters are considered among the best in the world for diving and where you can see barracuda (Crocodile Rock), seahorses (Wied Il-Gashri) and sunken ships.
Another unique experience on the island is the three-kilometre walk around the Qbajjar salt flats, exploited since Roman times; a staircase carved out of the rock leads to hidden and secluded coves where you can take a dip.
The icing on the cake is a trip to the tiny island of Comino, just 3.5 square kilometres and located between Malta and Gozo. It’s a very pleasant bird sanctuary for hikers, but what really makes it worth a visit is the Blue Lagoon, a natural pool of an intense turquoise colour where you can take a dreamy dip in the sea.
